April 6, 2008

Sewing With Leather

PCB_Articles | Comments (0) admin @ 2:01 am

Sewing leather and fur do not differ too much from sewing other types of material. The key to sewing leather is to always try your stitch on a piece of scrap before you start the actually sewing and then make sure you have your pattern accurate for the piece you will be sewing. The reason this is so crucial is that once you have stitched leather, if you make a mistake and need to undo the stitch, the leather will be weakened and you will be left with holes.

Stitching

Another tip is that depending on the thickness of the leather or fur, you want to lengthen your stitch to three or more. Obviously, the thicker the seam will be, the longer you need to make the length of the stitch. If you make your stitch too small, what happens is that the leather is punctured too close together, causing tears.

Another important tip is that you should always leave long threads at both the start and end of the seams so you can tie them off by hand. The only time you would use a backstitch is when the seam will be encased or crossed over by another seam. You can keep the seams together simply by placing a very small, strong in the seam allowance when sewing leather.

As you work with patterns, you will discover that leather garments have the same interfacing in the same locations just as you would find with other types of material. If you need to fuse your leather, an excellent product on the market called Leather Fuse is made specifically for leather. With this solution, the leather is fused quicker and at lower temperature settings, as not to damage the leather.

Now keep in mind that if you need to press an area of a pattern down, you can by using a small amount of steam. Since leather goes through a quality tanning process, there is no need to worry about shrinkage. Just be sure you place a brown paper press cloth in between the iron and the leather and never leave the iron sitting on the leather for very long.

If you are sewing leather with thick spots, you can use a rubber mallet to pound them out. However, you will need to protect the leather by covering it with paper or cloth to ensure you do not scratch or dent the leather.

If you are sewing leather that is more casual, you can use lapped seams. Simply topstitch to hold the seam allowance and then with a single-hole throat plate, you can stitch, which will keep the stitching nice and straight.

As you are sewing leather garments, you might experience skipped stitches. If this happens, do not stop stitching, just keep going. What you want to do is when you have finished all the machine stitching, go back, and stitch over those skipped areas by hand. Start by anchoring the needle between the layers of the garment and then bring it up through the first skipped hole.

Now, pass the needle over the thread of the floating thread that was skipped and then pull the needle back through the hole. Be sure you pull the stitch tight and do this for each skipped stitch. This way, you keep the integrity of the machine stitching in tact while providing reinforcement.

Materials

If you are interested in sewing leather clothing, crafts, or upholstery, you will need specific items that include the following:

Presser foot

Leather needle for the machine and Glover’s needle for hand stitching

Thread that is 100% polyester - do not use cotton or cotton blend because the chemicals in the leather from the tanning will cause the thread to rot

Rubber cement or two-sided adhesive tape

Rotary cutter to cut clean edges

Wax chalk to use for marking

Cold tape

Rubber mallet

Patterns

When sewing leather, you do not need a special pattern. You can simply choose a fabric pattern that you like and use leather instead of other fabric. Just be sure you choose the pattern carefully since some patterns will have multiple seams that do not work well when sewing leather.

Additionally, if the pattern has large pieces, chances are you will have to do some custom work in that the leather pieces will probably not be as large as the pattern. For example, if you were sewing leather pants, you would have to piece two hides of leather to create one pant leg. Now this can be done but just keep in mind that depending on the pattern you choose, you might need to get creative when sewing leather.

Always keep in mind that when sewing leather, muslin is crucial. The reason is that once leather has been stitched, letting out seams or making alterations is very difficult since the original needle hole will still be visible. By using muslin, once the alterations are complete, you can take it apart and then create a new pattern using a heavy type paper.

Sewing leather is not really that difficult but most people feel a little uncomfortable with it. If you want to create something using leather, you can always start with a small project first. Rather than starting out with a pair of pants or shirt, choose a simpler pattern such as a sleeveless vest. Once you have accomplished that, you will feel more confident and be ready to try making something a little more involved.

Skins

When sewing leather, choosing the right skin is very important. Be sure the leather is soft and supple. Each type of skin will vary somewhat as you will see below.

Cowhide

Since this type of hide is typically large, you will find that they are most often divided in two pieces called Sides. Because the hides are so large, they make a great choice for many patterns. The only drawback is that cowhide is tough by nature and therefore best suited for outerwear.

Pigskin

Pigskin is another type of leather that is typically found in larger pieces. With the leather being a good medium weight, this makes a great choice for many pattern types.

Lambskin

For lambskin, the leather is smaller and therefore is best used with smaller patterns. Because the leather is very soft and lightweight, this makes a great choice for skirts, jackets, and tops. The only thing you need to remember is that because lambskin is lightweight and thinner, it can tear and rip so use care when using it for sewing.

You will find that skins sold for sewing are pre-measured and sold by the square foot. For price, it will depend on the type of skin you choose as well as the tanning process used. Typically, a supplier will lay out a number of skins, sorting by color, texture, and size. If you visit a supplier in person, you will be able to choose leather skins that match best.

Additionally, when buying in person, you have the opportunity to look for damage caused by thin spots, tears, holds, folds, flaws, and so on. If you do buy from an online supplier, chances are you will receive quality leather. However, just to be on the safe side, it would be best to always buy from a supplier that offers a refund on uncut skin should you find it does not match or is damaged.

If you are not sure how much leather to buy, you can use the following formula to convert the traditional 45-inch fabric measurement:

Take the yardage required for the pattern and multiply it by 1.25 Then, add 15% for waste. If you are not sure you are buying enough, ask the supplier what their rule of thumb is.

Cutting / Marking

The way leather works is that the grain runs along the backbone of a skin. If you buy whole skins, you will find this grain running in the center of the skin. If buying a side piece of leather, then the grain would be located on the cut edge.

It is important to remember that the lengthwise grain of leather is not the same as with other fabric. For one, it will not stretch as much but it will be stronger. Therefore, be sure you always place the center fronts and backs along the grain. When you lay out your pattern, be sure you work with the finished side of the skin, facing up.

By using masking tape as a way of attaching the pattern pieces, you avoid poking unnecessary holes in the skin. Then with a rotary cutter, you will get a nice, clean edge. Just be sure you do not leave the masking tape on the skin for very long, as it can take off some of the finish.

For the markings, they can be transferred easily. For instance, for the notches and darts, clip very tiny pieces into the seam allowance. Then to mark the hem allowances, darts, pockets, buttonholes, and so on, simply use wax chalk, testing it first on a piece of scrap.

The dart points should be marked on the wrong side of the skin, piercing the pattern with a pin. Be careful that the pin does not go through the leather skin or you will have an unwanted hole. Now, gently lift up the pattern, make your marks with the chalk, and then draw the dart line for stitching with chalk and a ruler.

Notions

If you are working with a soft type of leather, you can use an invisible zipper to create a clean look. Just be sure you use a narrow piece of fusible interfacing as a way of securing the zipper. Rather than baste seams closed, you can tape them together and then just baste the zipper using rubber cement before you do the top stitching.

Another great idea for sewing leather is to use covered buttons. Often, by using an exposed button, the leather can be scratched. Choose a metal toothed button so that as you stretch it over the skin, it will grip and hold. Then to sew the buttons on, you can use dental floss, which will stop the button’s metal shank from cutting through regular thread.

Once you have completed your first sewing leather project, you’ll be amazed at how fun and easy it is. The key to success is working with the right type of skin, using the right type of tools, and taking your time so holes and tears are avoided.

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April 5, 2008

How to Interview Successfully and get the Job!

PCB_Articles | Comments (0) admin @ 2:06 am

The aim of this article is to help you learn how to develop your interviewing skills and secure the position that you are seeking. This article is intended for professional’s young and old alike.

The first thing that you have to do is know yourself. If you do not know yourself then you will not be able to present yourself to others. It does not matter at all what kind of job or position that you are applying for, what is important is that you know yourself and that you are confidant with yourself.

Imagine for a moment that you are in the army and engaged in battle with the enemy. Your very life is on the line and you depend upon your officers to lead you to victory and in safety. When you think about that officer in charge you want him/her to be confidant, intelligent, wise, and discerning. Those are the qualities that you expect from a leader and you will follow his/her commands without fail. If on the other hand your officers were nervous, indecisive, and unsure of themselves, would you not feel cautious and uncomfortable? Of course you would.

The same is true when you interview. The people that are interviewing you are like the solder in the field and they are depending on you. You need to convey a spirit of success and confidence when interviewing. If you do this you will have the job.

This is very important: The interviewers assume that you are qualified at the task you are interviewing for. What they are not sure of is your personal manner and ability to get along with others, particularly the staff that you would be working with. Do not worry about impressing them with what you know. Rather, impress them with sound character and integrity. That will get you the job!

When you approach the building where you are to interview be sure to look calm and confident, you never know who is watching and from where. When you get inside the building the first thing you do is ask where the washroom is. When you get there check yourself and make sure you look in order. Carry a small toothbrush, gargle and other toiletries to freshen up with before you meet anyone. These items are easily kept in a purse or briefcase.

Upon entering the area where you are to meet be sure to give eye contact with whom ever you see and politely ask questions with regard to your appointment. Speak softly and politely. When you are asked to take a seat and wait for the person(s) to come out. It is wise to read material pertaining to that company or institution if it is readily available. Learn all you can about that company or institution in the few minutes that you have before meeting. It is also prudent to do research on your prospective employer beforehand.

When your party comes out to greet you be sure to stand up and shake their hand firmly and make solid eye contact as you shake hands. Express how you are pleased to meet them and thank them for taking the time to meet with you.

When you are taken to the conference room or office be sure to take a seat where they suggest. At all times be calm and polite. Usually there are two or three persons conducting the interview, but one person is in charge and it is important to focus on that person.

Small talk will start; traffic, weather, getting there, etc., to help calm the atmosphere. After this the lead person will usually start the questions. Listen carefully! When you are asked a question do not give out too much information. Offer just enough to want them to inquire for more, like and appetizer. Keep them interested. Then at the end of every response be sure to ask them if what you have just told them satisfies their question. Continue this throughout the entire interview. Be sure to keep things short. Above all do not volunteer information, only answer the questions that they ask of you. Offering information could plant doubts that were not there and best left alone.

When you can be sure to reply to them in a fashion that displays your understanding of the task. Always polish your silver. Be confident in your manner and be sure never to be timid or shy. If you display confidence and politeness you will most likely get the job. Be sure to smile often but refrain from laughing. At the close of the interview shake everyone’s while looking them in the eye and thank them for their time.

Important: When you get home immediately write all persons at the interview a thank you card. The card must be from a fine store, museum, or gallery. The card should let them know that you are cultivated and refine.

After a few days follow up with a telephone call to see if they had any questions. This is always looked upon favorable it shows interest. They want to hire someone interested in the position not just looking for a job. If you follow these steps you will find yourself with the position that you wanted. Good luck to you.

I was born and raised on the south side of Chicago in Hyde Park Township, near the University of Chicago. As I child I was always drawing and painting. My father owned an art supply company, Favor Ruhl & Watson, where I was able to get all that I need to progress in my work.

I have always enjoyed portraiture and landscape. In HIgh School (Naperville Central High School) I took Drafting from Mr. Pierce. I quickly grasped the principles of perspective and hence made a career with both Fine Art and Architectural Renderings.

In the mid 1970’s I had joined the US Navy and was stationed on the USS Midway, CV-41. The Midway was home ported in Yokosuka, Japan (A suburb of Tokyo). While in service we traveled all over Asia including such countries as Korea, China, Philipines, Singapore, Pakistan, Hong Kong, and Japan.

While in Japan I learned Japanese. I speak German and Spanish as well.

I am a lover of Philosophy and Opera. I admire the works of Immanual Kant and Fredrich Nietzsche. In music I admire the works of Mozart and Wagner.

April 1, 2008

3-Tab Roofing Shingles

PCB_Articles | Comments (0) admin @ 1:04 am

A shingle that shows 3 tabs, or measures 3 feet, is fittingly known as 3-tab roofing shingles. They are normally guaranteed for 20 years and help the roof to have a smooth, defined look. Depending on the manufacturer, 3-tab shingles are often available in 20, 25 or even 30 year limited warranties. They are generally available in a variety of colors and it’s also important to note that 3-tab roofing shingles are some of the most cost efficient shingles to use on your home.

Are 3-Tab Roofing Shingles For You?

Before deciding on 3-tab roofing shingles for your home, check with your local homeowner’s association. In addition to certain restrictions that each association may have, some do not allow the use of 3-tab shingles. This may be true in areas that are prone to high wind or other inclement weather, but check with your local building requirements to be sure.

Replacing 3-Tab Roofing Shingles

If you need to replace 3-tab roofing shingles, you can either do the job yourself or hire a professional roofing contractor, such as Roofer911.com. If you decide to take the job on yourself, choose a warm, dry day. Do not work on the roof if it is wet or slippery. Once you’re on the roof, carefully pry the tabs of the shingles upward, which overlap the damaged one. Loosen the tabs and the adhesive on the back of the shingle. Work carefully to avoid damage to the neighboring shingles. If you lift too many tabs on good shingles, they may crack. For the shingle that you are removing, look for the nails holding it into place and remove them as well. Once the shingle is out, remove any debris from that area before placing the new shingle. With your new shingle in hand, search for the adhesive strips near the bottom of each of the 3 tabs. Slide the new shingle into place and secure it with nails. You may use roofing cement to secure the overlaying tabs.

Contacting A Professional

If you are uncomfortable working on your roof, call a professional roofing contractor. Roofer911.com has years of experience in helping homeowners with all of their roofing needs. We can help you, too. Give us a call or fill in the form for a fast quote on your project. We are here to answer all of your questions and to provide you with quality work, so please do not hesitate to contact Roofer911.com for repair or replacement of your roof.

As Long Island Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Does your website need more exposure to the search engines? Add Your Site Today to our free directory.

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